Collections —Man / Prêt-à-Porter

“I’m convinced that the timeless rules of fine dressing constitute the standard of fine dressing today. A principle entailing the snobbery of normality and the opposite of the same – namely, that eccentricity which is at once expression of character and ability to choose a style rather than just follow a fashion…

I envision this normality as gray or dark blue city suits where hand finishings ensure utter flawlessness, sense of precision. Above all I wanted the suits to have a light easy feel (and the same holds for every other item in the wardrobe) which is why I used flat ultralight untextured fabrics. A general wish for excellence led me to broaden my perspective, look beyond limits and boundaries to single out the best in textile tradition all over the world. I favored the most precious forms of classic materials – wool, linen, silk – then turned to cotton for my innovative take on wealth so that it wouldn’t be an attribute solely of cashmere or silk. Reasoning similarly, I made the rarest of leathers – ostrich, kangaroo, reindeer – quite a lot lighter and suppler. That way I could pair them naturally with nylon to create the easiest of jackets, ones that fold up and fit in a pouch…

Norm and exception to the norm meet also in the chromatic/graphic instances and elements. Along with urban gray, deep blue plus quiet neutral natural-sponge and sea-foam shades, I particularly chose an intense lapis lazuli color and many hues of coral red. They spark up the embroideries on the fleshtone georgette shirts and especially the sensual flamboyant dinner jackets – these too embroidered, fashioned patchwork mode from strip upon strip of impalpable silk, then set off severely by slim black tuxedo trousers. I allowed for enticingly bold marks, perfectly fanciful flora/fauna prints. On the shirts and wrap-robes to sport with beach shorts the lion has a charcoal-sketch flair, while the snake scales make a stunning mosaic impression. Over pants bordering on poor-look, other weightless shirts feature fake/real leaves and flowers negative-print style as in the photographic plates of once upon a time…

Accessories too capture the clear intent for originality and surprise. Shoes have a basic slender loafer shape, a soft light sole, yet come in iguana, camel, kangaroo or horse hide. Eyewear makes a strong impact with metal-set-in-acetate or cut-out-over-lenses frames. The little leather-strap bracelet is a trompe-l’oeil watch with tiny metal plate instead of a dial. Meanwhile the diagonal-silk tie with simple buckle becomes a belt. For the pleasure of fine quality always translates into inventive power. And into a supremely personal rereading of the rules…”

Gianfranco Ferré