Collections —Man / Prêt-à-Porter

“I have a clear, unfailing objective: to define and inflect a distinctive elegance, expression of neatness and precision, ever capturing a modern masculinity, moving within the horizons of the uniform. Or, better still, uniforms. The work variety primarily, with intrinsic functional ease. Nothing stiff, constrictive, overly formal. That’s why I have designed a new silhouette with softly form-fitting shoulders, lean slim lines that become comfortably wider in pants. What emerges is a smooth, solid, manly style that I interpret as a personal manner: never excessive or ostentatious. Thus naturally flattering, genuine, equipoised.

To give life and pace to this calm, impeccable attitude, I set out from a fine, reassuring range of materials and colors. The raw wool and deep mat blue of peacoats sparking images of a quiet yachting dimension, a cruise through the North and Baltic seas, between Sylt and Travemünde. The well-beaten Chinese gabardine, it too in dark blue, or black. The same hues for the yarn-dyed cotton of polo-shirts and sweaters. The canvas bordering between ivory and cream of the bricklayer’s garb. The ultranatural denim of the indigo jeans under a ribbon-knit top. The black taffeta of the slim windjacket. The light pinstripe fabric, shirting mode, of the uniquely nonchalant suit. The silks and linens of the white shirts with swallowtail collar.

I made it so that the alchemical variations of the material, the structural design of the garments, the special signs of the collection would also reflect this spirit of récherché ease, even exquisite kindness I’d say. The leather of bombers has the light weight and suppleness of gloves, a similar sense of construction too in the multiple ribbings and stitchings. The knits are very fine, in folding become almost without volume; in some cases they come in lisle (sock cotton), open with junctures. The graphic effects – of beige&black and black&white silk knit ties (to wear loose of knot) but also of suits and print silk marocain sportjackets – reveal a noble severity in line with Wiener Werkstätten principles, the sublime and wonderfully modern lesson of Adolf Loos, Josef Hoffman, Kolo Moser. Meanwhile, minutely precious embroideries, inlays, exotic-butterfly and bell-flower motifs decorate the dress shirts: always perfectly white, to pair with trousers of the same tone. White as the favorite choice in that much more unconventional than tuxedo black.

Solidity, lightness, eccentricity: in the wardrobe of my well-bred and reserved gentleman, these qualities – needless to say – define the accessories too. As in the loafers, ultraflexible, twotone, maybe in a jacquard fabric and with buff sole…”

Gianfranco Ferré