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Collections —Man / Prêt-à-Porter

Spring / Summer — 1993

Press Release

A sense of movement, action. A devotion to detail. An understanding of materials. Gianfranco Ferré has developed a wardrobe for men responding in full to the needs of a modern dynamic lifestyle. Putting the accent on the functionality and flexibilìty of clothes.

Sports themes show up throughout the collection both concretely in terms of lines and forms, and visually in the creative color mixes emblematic of today’s bent for individual freedom. The long, lean silhouette, moderate of shoulders, offers a certain elastic element inherent to comfort, that special softness intrinsic to a firm fit. Ever yielding to the body’s athletic build, and yet without imposing one standard of the same for all.

A taste for differences generates in fact a variety of styles, changing concepts of elegance. The spirit of adventure, for example, reverberates with intense memories and calls forth a full immersion in the environment: but in the most eco-aware of ways. The game of relationships leads to a black-and-white that picks up on some features of baseball and fashions a uniform consisting in black trousers and white shirt. Trousers taking on a fullness of both volume and expression in the pleats and various imprints of wear, all the while highlighting mannish motifs (glen plaid, checkerboard, houndstooth, fil-à-fil and grain de poudre). Shirts in poplin with pockets or without, collars for fastening or leaving open instead…

The neutral tones favor fabrics typical of linings: washed and treated cloths, for anatomical jackets and high waisted pants. The white has the brightness and feel of linen, the lightness of voile and double gauzes, set off then by a seedstitch knit with natural leather trims. A total black, total navy and total khaki, meanwhile, give the suit all the rigor of a uniform.

Shots of fantasy, rather, come through in the stars-and-stripes series in a patchwork effect, and in the pullovers in checks, zigzags and stripes. An expression of energy and strength, then, in the natural leather – a sure sign of the season. Suedes washed, perforated and lined in a stretch tulle: an alligator trophy-bomber, a Wips hunting vest, a precious lizardskin; jeans in a print drill resembling anaconda. A raw and full-textured silk or a twisted silk for glen plaids and chalkstripes. Pinstripes with a fine line of color. Jackets with a bright piping. Jackets in a drearn of shades: purple, pink, red, framboise, pumpkin and green. In a burst of vitality as explosive as cajun music.