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Collections —Man / Prêt-à-Porter

Spring / Summer — 1984

Press Release

“Returning to the roots, to a taste which is European … Nice, Cannes, Venice… walks in blue nikis and crushed linen trousers… the usual gestures, the pleasure of savouring classical words and forms… Looking for the most complex simplicity in order to arrive at a new tradition of masculine dress… Dressing for oneself and not for ostentation of oneself… Proposing again fabrics, materials, combinations without the ambiguity of the déjà-vu… Not very different from a writer in front of a sheet of white paper, putting in the finishing touches, eliminating what is surplus, getting down to the essence of things. Remembering the calm terseness of Frederick Forsyth or of Raymond Chandler … “

(notes from a conversation with Gianfranco Ferré, July ’83)

Re-arranging the color. Whites blended with neutrals or with an icy putty color. A virile base of bordeaux, billiard green, opaque blue with a touch of grey. Well defined and vital hues.

Re-interpreting the fabric. Double wool crêpe (for very fine, unlined jackets). Wool piqué, snappy linen and wool grisailles. Wool shantung. Silk and linen madras. “Liftier” stripes in silk (the nuances are kneaded, worked, crushed).
Effects of English grisailles with an airy weave. Seersucker, cotton gabardine very slightly striped (but for trousers). Interchangeability among the fabrics of the suits and of the separates.

Re-inventing the materials. Patchwork for the tricot. The elasticity of the ribbing is expressed clearly in the joints (elbows, armholes), mixing glove peccary and knit, featherweight facecloth and knit. Double-face leathers
reversible, suede and pigskin in various tones, framed by bicolor ribbing. Featherweight suede for the polos and the trousers.

Re-constituting the jacket. Soft shoulders, but not sloping, or cut on the bias to emphasize the figure (without altering the dimensions). The growing possibility of movements by means of bias at the armhole. The lightness of the shirt fabric in order to multiply the nuances: outside on inside, freely. The formality of the blue blazer lightened by shiny weave wool and by coal black trousers. For the evening, a white tuxedo in fresh wool with cotton piqué trousers. Pyjama striped jacket over a lisle T-shirt and black tuxedo trousers.

Re-designing the trousers. Sliding, held at the waist by little straps balancing the volume.” Linen and silk mixed with linen to lighten them.
Re-valunig the shirt. Pleats and bellows-pleats to construct the fullness. Respecting the classical rules: poplin, linen, fil à fil silk, the neck finished with a band.