Collections —Man / Prêt-à-Porter

“In my opinion the need for a natural ease and a smooth sense of practicality, in no way bordering on sloppiness, represent the strongest urges behind male dressing today. Gone are all barriers between formal and informal, between sporty fabric and business suit, because what’s determining the difference between moments and occasions is how the individual interprets these formularies in terms of his own personality and vision… In order to construct truly casual, fully functional clothes I delved into the technology of sportswear and uniforms. And in transferring the same to everyday clothing, I came up with results freer and suppler than ever, closer to the body, for now even shetlands and tweeds include an elastomer yarn allowing fluency and snugness…”

Gianfranco Ferré

FORM

The figure is at once slender and easy, slightly fuller toward the bottom: calling forth jackets emblematic of a military or athletic context, those comfortable in the pelvis area for the placing of all-purpose pockets. Despite a slimmish waistline, the overall effect is softer and smoother, no hugging of the body. Then in the tradition of fine tailoring, shoulders follow natural lines, have roundish padding; otherwise get support from open circular seams in the same fabric, making padding unnecessary.

RESEARCH

Structural modifications for the world’s most traditional fabrics result in a new elasticity, suppleness and full texture. With the inclusion or an elastomer yarn, wool can take on sharper, snugger shapes.

An adaptation of activewear technology to the everyday wardrobe lets clothes acquire a new practicality, greater interpretative freedom. If the suit is dark, for example, it can assume a formal role whether in a fine wool crêpe or not.

Leather with a nylon or pile lining proves an avant-garde material once again – for the flexibility, animality and durability.

TRANSFORMATION

A new look in coals: almost 100 centimeters (40 inches) in length. Easy but solid: in a shiny calendered shetland, in a voluminous stretch cover; in washed alpaca, Harris tweed and camel-hair with faux fur padding.

Meanwhile the close-fitting coat now resembles a traditional morning jacket (in soft fabric), the bomber a techno bob-sledding model.

The approach to evening changes, too: all it takes are skinny turtleneck pullovers, colorful velvet T-shirts and polos, marble effect velvets and plaids.

COLOR

All-time favorites of male dressing. Neutral honey tones, ink blue for stretch pinstripes. Dark browns for the fuller-textured materials. Hues deep and opaque, from undergrowth to marsh, for brushed fabrics and washed alpaca. Ivory and black for checks, tweeds and pindots.

SUBSTANCE

Materials are full-textured, in many cases close-textured: double flannel, teaseled on both sides; flannel with the reverse in a silk/viscose, for a new sense of fluidity.

Thick fulled knits. Camel-hair fabric stitches for pullovers ultrasimple of !ine. Traditional regimentals with gros-grain and melton bands on fabric-stitch sweaters.

Shirts small and slim, often in a polo-type jersey. Stretch shirts picking up on the classic formula: a decorative detachable collar, open to transformation for with a turn this way and that it becomes a mere band for attaching the tie.