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Collections —Man / Prêt-à-Porter

Fall / Winter — 1990

Press Release

“This collection exudes a strong sense of winter. A frosty air, an icy wind from the north… What I have in mind, however, is Europe, the bitter cold of Knut Hamsun’s Norwegian fjords, the blinding splendor of Karen Blixen’s Denmark. Images present in our minds, cultures meaningful to our lives and hearts. AlI where the sense of tradition is solid, behavioral codes deeply rooted, the norm duty familiar … I sought to translate these profound points of reference into a feeling of true comfort, for me synonymous with simplicity. This means lines in which we recognize ourselves, feel natural, lines in which the new comes forth with the authoritativeness and ease of what has always been…”

(from a conversation with Gianfranco Ferré on January 3, 1990)


The theme of fine tailoring – manifest in rules developed through the Ferré style over time – and the theme of a destructured ease. For a wholly personal and internal reorganization of men’s apparel, once again uniting – in terms both effective and conceptual – options of appearing and reasons for being. Thus the business jacket is worn with a rigorous coat, a shirt-jacket with a sweater or blouson. All without contradicting or confusing genres.


New softnesses but also a pleasant feeling for the old and used, in the cream-and-black and cream-and-brown chiné wools. The propriety of crêpes, glen plaids and côtelés, intrinsic in the cashmeres and wools too. A solid sense of tradition in the hand-polished leathers, bleached shearlings, in the peccary used for padded shirts and safari jackets. A taste far male rituals in the medals-of-honor decors and in the prints of allegorical/geographical inspiration: weather vanes, zodiacal signs, stuccoes, architectural elements.


The deep quiet presence of neutral shades, which in the most precious of yarns take on warm golden nuances. Then for the more bristly yarns, the vibrant call of flag colors – ruby red, emerald green, coat-of-arms blue. A soft fragmented touch in the jaspés of diverse tonalities , in mix with inserts and hand-workings. The warm naturalness of vicuna, cashmere and camel-hair for classic sweaters with stitches dropped and carried over.