• 1960
  • 1961
  • 1962
  • 1963
  • 1964
  • 1965
  • 1966
  • 1967
  • 1968
  • 1969
  • 1970
  • 1970
  • 1971
  • 1972
  • 1973
  • 1974
  • 1975
  • 1976
  • 1977
  • 1978
  • 1979
  • 1980

Collections —Man / Prêt-à-Porter

Fall / Winter — 1989

Press Release

“What I have prepared here is an orthodox wardrobe. A constant set which at this point has its own classification… for, following rules established in the Ferré tradition and, beyond this, perfecting the idea of ease, destructurization, I have given new meaning to the concept of tailoring… I have also added a deliberate eccentric touch, one that is however unlike anything usually associated with the term… More than a question of snobbism, I would say the collection reflects a mental reworking of what has always existed in men’s apparel…”

(Notes from a conversation with Gianfranco Ferré on January 2, 1989)


The suits with the SARTORIAL label feature precise, specific proportions and, at the same time, the smoothness and ease emblematic of ready-to-wear. Finishings are in great part hand-done, fabrics always exquisite (cashmere, camelhair, alpaca). The double-face articles reflect that modern taste for mixing different moods: for example, cashmere blends, washed for a softer looser look, and crêpe fabrics, ever lightweight and easy to wear.


Garments soft, full of body, in no way rigid. A return to the spartan rustic comfort inherent in Harris tweeds, irregular mélanges and teaseled mohairs. Reinvigorated, however, with a certain uniform spirit made up of flannels and meltons in shades of gray from smoky to anthracite, of vyellas and Harris tweeds in a basic gray. A Russian revolution. One nuance over the other, interpreting that sense of easy elegance typical of a well-traveled Englishman.


Hints of Anatolia and of Persian carpets in the spindled tricots, and in the rusty-tone patchworks reflecting a feel for old trunks, kilim carpets rolled up for generations, the binding of antique books. A nostalgic rigor in the voile dress shirts. Or those in silk crêpe (in front) and cotton (in back), or in a finely pleated crêpe de chine with a stiffer vyella in back.