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Collections —Man / Accessories

Spring / Summer — 1988

Press Release

Prêt-à-porter Collection

“I followed my feelings. A secret thread which links one emotion to another and follows the logic of taste more than reason. In this way, feelings which are, in a certain way, similar, surface in this collection: a softness, neatness and freshness which starts from the inside and emerges on the outside. A lightness which, at times, expresses itself through shape and at others, through the material used. Classical values remain the mainstays of men’ s clothing, indisputable reference points where a certain education is concerned, but without following specific outlines or putting these values into limited categories. Because there are so many ways of dressing and freedom of the gesture corresponds to my creative freedom… “

(talking with Gianfranco Ferrè, June 30th 1987)

The certainty that “couture” pervades even the lightest, most weightless suit; the gabardine duster coat; the crêpe raincoat; the white, pink or pale-blue shirt on the natural-coloured trousers and jackets.

The practicality of airy materials; of reversible jackets, where, when they are very structured on the inside, are more traditional on the outside; of loose, unlined jackets, without any shoulder padding; of colonial safari jackets, rethought and made lighter.

The determination to go for colonial colours in all their hues, till colour becomes something abstract, a non-colour. The determination to have strong touches of colour, such as bright red and royal blue, to have poplin jackets with red on beige topstitching; to have cotton and pure linens which refuse mixes or futuristic materials.

The independence in taste which protects from fashion’s uniformity. This is made manifest by choosing the comfort of soft moccasins in a dull leather or else by choosing traditional, very shiny, leather shoes; by choosing the seal and chamois leather belt, ties with cashmere and liberty patterns, but in very soft shades, ties which are traditionally finished, without a lining and with seven folds.