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Collections —Man / Accessories

Spring / Summer — 1985

Press Release

Prêt-à-porter Collection

“I have always followed a dominant idea, a key word: simplification, comfort. Comfort of elementary patterns, of loose forms, of unusual fabrics. Doubled viscose flock; “English” twist linen and silk to form an open weave; soft and elastic natural crêpe; limp ottoman for ties. Lots of pure silk mixed with rayon and with wool: for a tricot with a silky touch and which falls differently. No constriction, no obligation, but that of intelligence and good habits. Because the man who wears Ferré practises a ritual which is by now well-established, and knows how to act. He does not need anyone to tell him when to put on a blue pullover”.

(from a conversation with Gianfranco Ferrè on 3rd July 1984)

Notes for a collection

Observe the fabrics. Cool wool and mohair for all the creations, including the bermudas. Synthetics for a special effect of softness (as the viscose ottoman of the bush jackets). Knitwear weight cotton interlock for the suede sports jackets. Silk poplin.

Look at the colors again. Indefinite whites, dusty neutrals, brown invaded by very dark blues. Egyptian batik designs on the beach. Decided blends: white changes color and becomes cream. Vague yellowish tones.

An eye on the jackets. From the blazers offered (normal but comfy shoulders) to the super-soft bush racket, wide gusseted pockets which open.

Military jacket closed up to the collar. Uniform jackets with high pockets. The water-proofs become limp and loose duster-coats. The overshirts are light as shirts or very important, formal, to be worn English style with a tie and a white shirt. They are often in nappa with a series of rubber buttonholes.

Fresh attention to the trousers. The old iridescent cottons are rediscovered for the universal trousers. Or the aplomb of cool wool. With three darts to give form, or straight but always comfy.

With classical shoes or holiday ones: espadrilles, punched pigskin, coarse white cloth.

The evening. White tuxedos, black tuxedos. Blue or black jackets with silk tricot palos. Very dark regimental, from country club to the tropics.