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Collections —Man / Accessories

Fall / Winter — 2005

Press Release

“It’s perfectly normal for each new collection of mine to take shape as a further clarification of codes, concepts, symbols that I’ve effectively made my own and that I’d like to have capture a style above and beyond any fashion. A style entailing precise canons and rules which nevertheless don’t impose restrictions and/or set solutions. Here the approach to dressing is fully open to individual expression, depends exclusively on personal choice and even on the pleasure of exploring various possibilities, of rediscovering items with a past to mix easily with pieces very much part of the present: as in the genuine army blazer to sport with a pure cashmere turtleneck, the military cape and mackintosh with ultra classic suits, combat boots, cargo pants and army belt. For in the final analysis elegance is primarily a matter of coherence by design…”

Gianfranco Ferré

Gray is the soul of authentic suiting. Unmistakable, up-to-date, complete with different types of pin and chalk striping for suits in glazed flannel, ultraprecious tasmania, pure cashmere. Silhouettes are long and slim, constructions precise and flawless. Shirt and tie make for a must. Austere urban gray impacts leathers and furs, too: ostrich skin, alligator, arctic seal, Scandinavian mink…

Wintry blue is inevitably intense. A Nordic midnight hue enhancing the full texture of thick cottons, felt, smooth fabrics in shiny/mat contrasts, a melton thick and close-textured even when in cashmere and higher in tech performance than nylon. Materials ideal for fashioning finely tapered overcoats, pencil thin. Dark blue also for shearlings and knits with graphite-black weasel lining. The turtleneck, in cashmere and silk, is the main protagonist…

Quiet modulations of wax accentuate the casual ease of cabans, duffel-coats, winter safari jackets. In washed satin, distressed and tattered, otherwise in nylon cordura or thickweave wool, with extra warm silvery fox or summer stoat linings. For structuring the shorter, sportier blousons instead the semi-roughness of English rawhide or natural-dyed and oiled horsehide works perfectly. On the contrary, the suppleness of the softest cashmere favors the creation of innovative blazers the ultimate in aplomb: jacquard knits in motifs reminiscent of John Aldridge’s “Hexagon” tapestries, with silk linings where a barely distinguishable shadow effect calls to mind the bronzes of Paul Manship…

Evening assumes the dense shades of rusty metals – bronze, copper, ruthenium, titanium – which along with black or white spark an express feel for sophisticated nonchalance. A dandy dressing-gown is all that’s necessary over the dress shirt with loose bow-tie. The cashmere twinset features gorgeous embroidery, while the overcoat in glossy double wool has the simplicity of perfection. This conscious bent for elegance requires some must-have Ferrés for men: from the pure white shirts where countless gros grain ribbons are sewn together, to the masquerade tuxedos… dazzling alchemic exploits where silk print and damask, lived-in velvet and embroidery form a marvelously kaleidoscopic whole…