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133

Collections —Man / Accessories

Fall / Winter — 1988

Press Release

“Irony, the need to smile at the newest uniform ways of dressing: casual because it gives an air of comfort, traditional dressing because it gives a good image, creative clothes because they are fashionable.
But also the calculatedly exaggerated shapes, the romantic air of an open-necked white shirt under a black jacket.
A way of dressing according to work and social levels which has become a way of conforming, lazy… Whilst the real choice today should be mature, considered. No heroism is needed to wear a jacket, a soft comfortable shirt under an overcoat gives a sense of well-being, it is amusing to team classics and novelties. A spirit of wildness is in the air, vaguely Napoleonic, with “untamed” fur linings, collars of wolf…”

(from a conversation with Gianfranco Ferré of 3/1/1988)

Transforming

Fabrics are compactly woven yet soft thanks to advanced technology: cotton with cotton is washed until it changes and becomes more plastic.

Featherweight nylon is combined with wool and with leather then washed at very high temperatures.

Leather is treated with rubber, making it rainproof and reversible.

Interpreting

Unusual methods of tanning for the leather range: English shoe leather, soft and shiny; drumskin parchment bonded to jersey.

Exaggerating

Knitted garments are washed and felted to make sweatshirts. The shaping stitches become giant sized on traditional knits such as camel, cashmere and silk/cashmere.

Fixing

Jackets have neater shoulders, the waist is more tailored, a roomier fit around the hips. The slightly triangular outline is softened and rounded thanks to a special cut of the garments with the seams joined but not overstitched. Colours are: parchment and honey with touches of yellow and old gold. Blue, wine red, dark red mixed with black and natural.