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Collections —Woman / Prêt-à-Porter

Spring / Summer — 2007

Press Release

“… I let myself succumb to a vacation mood, utter wish for distension and diversion. The invigorating sense of relaxation we might envision on an Atlantic crossing aboard a cutter ploughing through the waves in full sail towards Punta del Este. The fun we would enjoy out on some exhilarating night lit up exclusively by the fires of a fiesta gitana. To portray this urge I played with opposites. Or better still, with a variety of values that in today’s femininity merge seamlessly: sensuality and self-possession, courtesy and impetus, energy and charm… The result is a collection defined by a keenly sporty attitude yet also by an accent on gentle demeanor. I made a point of streamlining shapes and proportions, all without relinquishing the need for precise constructions and the propensity for magic…”

Gianfranco Ferré

 Simplifying, reducing mostly. True for lengths and hems: shorts hold sway, along with bitty tulip skirts slightly low slung on hips and loosely fastened by a long narrow belt lazo style. Legs dart freely. Jackets get shorter, too, in the form of micro cabans totally new, of spencers and boleros in firm cotton gabardine. They acquire greater volume, complete with smart puff sleeves and come over athletic jersey tank tops. And, always, they show the marks of tailoring: superb cuts, unique finishing touches, masterful hand stitching. The formal cleanliness is there in the palette. Navy blue, black, white, sand tones: basic and neutral hues in stunning mixes to award the clothes a graphic flair as can be seen in the Dadaist slogans embroidered on sweatshirts. Or the trompe-l’oeil coat-of-arms and images typical of Argentine polo clubs making for an evocative plus as decors on T-shirts. Sweaters also fall under the trompe-l’oeil spell. They come poncho style, with thick ecru cable stitching – according to the finest sailor tradition – on a tulle base.

 These dynamic vibrations blend smoothly with a feminine pleasure in revealing what’s usually left to the imagination. So the little cocktail dresses have a lingerie appeal, feature a glossy crushed satin, as if all heirloom items kept in a hopechest. Cluing into this sublime declaration of cunning, even leather performs an alchemic trick: lusciously soft and light like a piece of fabric, with the sheen of dessous satin.

 While daytime is sharp and quick, the evening captures a dancing motion. Both delicate and bewitching. The catalyzing element of seduction is the airy georgette flamenco shawl with ever-swingy tassels and fringes. It hugs hips accentuating their rhythmic sway. It knots around the shoulders, over breasts, to form the sexiest of tops, ends draping on the back. Mixed together, shawls become sinuously skinny skirts, almost to the knee, that extend downward to create a train effect. Wondrously light and potent all in one, they present contrast stripes, giant dots and abstract graphics on satin. Then, to soften the impact of these prints with a note of modesty and discretion, the shawl-skirts always come with sheer lace-encrusted layers of pleated voile and chiffon. Meanwhile, colors make a kaleidoscopic statement thanks to a constant interplay of  midnight blue and deep brown, red and citron yellow, optic white and ivory… For when night falls, the pleasure we take in relaxing in the sun inevitably gives way to an instictive desire for tenderness and joy, mystery and enchantment.