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Collections —Woman / Prêt-à-Porter

Spring / Summer — 2006

Press Release

“The purity of white, a sense of lightness, a touch of frivolity too, conscious and therefore quiet, calm: summing up in these few words the emotions recurring through my new collection comes to me easily, instinctively almost. These are the hallmarks of femininity which I sought to capture and convey, at once sunny and sedate, joyous and graceful… a femininity both passionate and reserved, sparking visions of Latin-American women, hermosas y preciosas…

 … Pure white as in the intense dazzling midday sun reverberating on the façades of colonial buildings and magnificent Mexican cathedrals. White is not only a color, it’s a declaration of vitality and purity. I chose it to mark an important part of the collection: jackets, blousons and little pullovers (snug and slim, with skinny shoulders) featuring sharp, precise lines and volumes. In contrast to skirts seductively round at hips, slightly low of waist, clearly winning out over pants – which expressly to leave legs free never go beyond bermuda length. In a perfect poising of essence and emphasis, the purity of white inflects as ever the organza blouses with exquisite array of tiny pleats, gorgeous smocking, tassel and pom-pom edging, sumptuous puff, balloon or cloud sleeves… Then to tone down the blinding reflection of white, I added the warmest and densest of wood hues – bois de rose, sandalwood, rosewood, mahogany – which at times cross the frontier into equally intense nuances of Sierra wild flowers: blood red, vermilion, carmine…

 … Lightness primarily in the form of summery materials, cotton voile and silk georgette in particular… which I used also for sporty items in a distinct effort to combine freshness and comfort. Even the essentially firm, granular leathers of skinny jackets in buffalo and deerskin become soft and supple, take on alchemically a poplin-like consistency. Challenging the law of gravity, nothing escapes this sense of lightness, not even when surfaces present precious embroideries and lace detailing, along with an endless series of meticulous filet, ajour, crochet, double macramé, openwork floral designs – not infrequently patchwork style on jackets and pullovers. Bags too have no apparent weight, come extra big and floppy, over the shoulder, lusciously close to the body. But lightness may also be the nonchalance of a gesture on a breezy summer evening, that most charming way of finding warmth in a mantilla-shawl, in fine bayadère-stripe silk jersey or a thick-weave cotton, while letting the embroidered tulle skirt swirl freely…

 … Frivolity actually as a synonym for vivacity, joy, magic… for the enchanting opulence that I wished to have encompass the night especially. It is there in all the gold laces and in the tinkling cascades of glittery chains calling forth the sacred jewels of the Virgen de Guadalupe. It is there in the ultrasheer T-shirts – at once sexy and chaste for they bare shoulders yet cover neck – bejeweled with gemstones, silvery metal beads, embossed gold scales. It is there in the airy skirts and dresses, both sumptuous and severe, made lavish by flounces in various colors, richly ribbed and gathered with gros grain ribbons, raised in front and then lengthened in back in a hint of a train… A sense of frivolity, finally, heightens the appeal of skinny fleshtone braided-suede sabots and sandals with shapely wood platform: they give energy and solidity to the figure, quick and stately, who casts her shadow paesando through the streets and squares of the city, defying the heat while awaiting sunset…”

Gianfranco Ferré