Collections —Woman / Prêt-à-Porter

“If I had to sum up the spirit of my new collection in a single sentence I’d say that while nothing appears constructed everything is studied to give the figure a true sense of lightness and modern glamour – also when regarding the sportswear items. Without ever relinquishing the magic, emotion, appeal…

 To give each item a soft and stretchy feel I made jersey my primary tool – for me a key material, almost an obsession. I used it in its many variants and forms, in all possible combinations and interpretations. I had it connect quite naturally with the satin of the blazer and the chiffon of the mannish “marcel”. Covered by a layer of fine black netting to create an illusion of both the pant’s micro bird’s-eye pattern and the faux-tweed of the jacket. The later tailored with flawless details, strong shoulders, a hint of a basin and genuine silk tweed fringe. Feature high-frequency openwork for the new take on macramé-lace of the knee-length trumpet skirt swaying at every step. In the blousons I mixed jersey with nylon and kangaroo, producing an effect so soft and supple that telling one material from the next becomes nearly impossible. Meanwhile pierced jerseys, loose- or thick-mesh mode, fashion patchworks create a singular look in sporty/romantic shirts…

 To tell the story of this alluringly light femininity I chose a quiet chromatic progression where the presence of black – and even more so of powdery cocoa, guarana, cassava or somewhat warmer earth tones – is determinant. Yet I also let pure color burst through to spark an impression of precious fantasy. The coral-snake jacket shimmers with bright Harlequin hues. The evening dresses reflect the vibrant charm of wild animal prints. On chiffon, on tulle and on jersey again the rich shades of feline coats bond beautifully with dazzling embroideries, alchemic encrustations tracing exotic leaves, Stile Liberty flowers, lilies… all the more enchanting in that sheer…

 The silhouette, too, takes on sense of motion, greater emphasis. Triple, quadruple layers of pleated tulle ripple upward, transforming the dress into the opulent yet evanescent shadow of a forest animal. The sinuous sheath with tiger motif widens toward the bottom into an airy, almost excessive bell shape designed to ‘float’ and thus seduce. Like the lace-encrusted black satin dress with empire waist, sleek embroidery-edged flounces, to wear under the little natural-tone silk  duchesse jacket that has the ensemble reacquire a certain severity. Even more artful, incredible, unique is the version where embroidered tulle appears wondrously over tiger-stripe chiffon…

 To ground the figure instead I preferred shoes in distinct shapes, unusual materials: python, kangaroo, zebra. Eccentrically, even imperiously striking are the python sandals with hint of mirror platform, superhigh horn heel, ankle strap held under the sole with a silver clasp. Just about all the accessories aim for a strong impact, take inspiration from an otherworld animal universe: narrow belts have zebra stripes, the pendants a warthog tusk look (as do the buttons and frogs on the silk faille duffle-coat)…

 It’s as if the luxuriant splendor of the Amazon Rain Forest, with its fabulous fauna and flora, intermingled in our imagination with the ever tempting, passionate atmosphere of San Salvador de Bahia. Evoked by the orchids pinned on the creations following one after the other on the catwalk and especially by the heady scent pervading the room so seductively…”

Gianfranco Ferré