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Collections —Woman / Prêt-à-Porter

Spring / Summer — 2002

Press Release

“Wavering between the charms of myth and the vibrations of software, India today tells a magical story. One I’ve let myself succumb to, retelling it through references and paraphrases in turn renewed by techno intents and interpretations. In this passionate exploration I have narrated all that’s pure and strong, vibrant and free, stimulating and modern stirring in the ancient soul of this remarkable land. Focusing particular attention on the extraordinary, supremely elegant balance between simplicity and opulence…”

 Gianfranco Ferré

…Beginning with shapes, which have the clarity and cleanliness of the noblest couture. Drapings, perfect lines, natural drapes: all exalting, enhancing an easy elementary silhouette. Defined by hand-decors on slim tapered pants, by an entire range of openworks and gorgeous rivetings, by the fullness of a pleated skirt heightening the impact of a there-but-not-there bodice, by layers or panels flowing into pants with utmost precision…

At once solemn and sinuous, chaste and sly, as in images of certain female deities, bodies come through quietly from behind enchanting tulle-stretch-in-mix-with-leather-or-metal tattoos, second-skin-more-than-sheer techno organza creations – exquisite instances of drawstring furrowings, spiral encirclings, verging toward black, but also in the sparkling fluo nuances of tangerine, lemon, orange. A subtle sensuality rich in grace – no need for daring cuts – finds expression in the sheer organza jacquard jeans interwoven with metal, and in the dresses with striking lead plumbs (the same which in dressmaking give weight and sense of aplomb to hems) awarding depth to drapings playing intentionally with the figure…

…Cooler and sharper than glints of gold, glittery silver makes for ornamentation both infinitely precious and wonderfully low-key. Metallic stitchings reinforce and undulate the hemlines of shirts in percale or ultralight soft leather. Tiny aluminum buttons brighten the twinset worn with silk tussah patchwork pants; or fashion on leather sumptuous arabesque borders, shimmering knee-pads, sparkling surfaces with a myriad of reflections, as if itty bits of mirror. At times only the impression of silver remains – coming from dazzling plastic lamination on silk. As for gold, it shows up exclusively in aged and subdued form, as in the slimfit jeans under sari-shirt…

…The lesson in opulent simplicity lets us replace magnificent Indian jewelry with platings and brushstrokes in gold and silver directly on skin. It also lets us go all-out with footwear, from superflat fleshtone sandals to truly ostentatious shoes. And to define the logic of color with keen immediacy: red, navy, black offset by metallic gray and fluo hues…

…Sensations and nuances that appear all the more magical if we imagine them swathed in a gentle, sensuous, rosy light…