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Collections —Woman / Prêt-à-Porter

Spring / Summer — 2001

Press Release

“If I think of Africa I see an album of pictures shot in black&white and then scannerized… Profiles and shapes, sensual in that elementary, provocative in that nude, voluminous and opulent all the while apparently clothed in rags… which I translated into some exquisite materials: silk gazar, iridescent shantung, double taffeta, quadruple organza… all to create an effect at once light and elaborate, as if folding sheets of paper or edges of jute. Patterns have the force of tattoos highlighting the silhouette, they’re signs of reduction and blend with body painting. Jewelry becomes clothing, clothes are jewels ornating the body, going to the roots of the figure and of decoration too. For a sense of magic vibrating with unusual reflection…”

Gianfranco Ferré

Forget the usual styles, customary habits and gestures… In a way sumptuous, primitive, eccentric and pure, shantung skirts take on the semblance of liquorice cones, strategic gatherings create a series of flounces. Dresses with slight train have a simple air of royalty, plus the voluptuous rippling of Senegalese bubujes. Pieces of full-textured embroidered gros-grain come together to form surprising dresses. Spiral cornets of silk turn into skirts and shirts. Strange mixes of styles, sublime touches of tribal elegance: a jute/silk duster set off by woven-python pumps with hand-painted heel; a couture jacket in houndstooth silk over fringed mesh skirt with coral trim; a flawless suit with balloon sleeves. And then two different options for the same garment: a jacket with zip at hips opens up and shifts into shoulder scarf mode; otherwise completes the perfect suit in cotton gabardine… Cascades of coral necklaces cover breasts, drop further and become a microdress; or intertwine with strings of hide. Stones and corals fashion jewelry incorporated into the clothes with filigree-embroideries on black tulle. Bits of coral and tiny black beads reinvent tweed for a trompe-l’oeil second-skin T-shirt with long sleeves. Straw comes in red, while raw-edge cotton organza and fringed pythonskin feign thick intangibile clouds of feathers, seemingly marabou… Gold joins up with red to give greater nobility to the hue. White – chalk, eggshell, whitewash – and black make an insistent return, together tracing out body prints, magical motifs, ethno-tattoos. Madagascar silk madras gleams in burgundy red, midnight blue, antique gold… Sharp open sandals with superhigh heel, ultrasoft slippers in pure satin, optical hose in warrior-motif mode… All for an impact strong on dynamism, high in energy…