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Collections —Woman / Prêt-à-Porter

Spring / Summer — 2000

Press Release

“The sense of the year 2000 in this collection involves no revolution. Rather, it reflects a spirit allowing us to envision feminine dress – and the body – with great sentiment and equal reason, with shapes and gestures belonging to a culture at once acquired, noble and purposely simplified. The concept of “couture” once emblematic of High Fashion, with its essential, important symbols – a certain Balenciaga, for instance – appears anachronistic now in terms of those heavy and perhaps overly proper constructions. Instead, maintaining the same values, yet freed and animated by today’s logics and techniques, can in my opinion award grace, beauty, sensuality, allure to the figure. Can make for a more genuine and heartfelt devolution. That of a new glamour…”

Gianfranco Ferré

Soft architectures. To the fabric’s quasi-immaterial lightness corresponds a superprecise structure of the dress. As in the washed-silk faille redingote-shirt with cuts freeing the body from all constraints: the ultrasnug sleeves have a small side slit allowing whatever movement; the kimono shoulders have an inlay accenting the shape; the closure consists of liana-fine straps winding two, three times around the figure.

Versatile structures. The jacket, with single pin closure, becomes a tailcoat, a vest, a shirt with sassy godet in back. The straight skirt narrows all the more towards the bottom; trousers slim down with natural ease. The blouse turns into a simple chemisette or in detachable cuffs (worn also on bare arms): in superlight silk poplin, it has a – smaller or longer – single-button collar that moves freely.

Airy volumes. Organza and tulle with tie closures form sheer hour-glass dresses or semi-balloon skirts with light hoops.

Natural effects. Deep intense colors, from brown to dark green to black. Warm straw hues enveloping the body in light basket effects. Precious pastels bonding sand and stone: jade, pink quartz, pale aquamarine in the shiny silk/nylon brocades.

Primitive touches. Raw-edge ostrich offering a glimpse of the organza linings. Python giving the fabric a crisper look.

Real gardens. Floral print organza. Straw, weeds for the bustier, clipped grass for the cardigan. Leaves (in leather) for shoulder wraps, haircloth trumpet skirts with pink corals and paillettes. Shoes in wisps of organza or in frayed brocade. A nail-sharp heel and partial damasked-velvet upper. Metal wedges with mere strap at ankles. String sandals in stretch fleshtone taffeta. More sensual than nudity.