Collections —Woman / Prêt-à-Porter
Spring / Summer — 1993
Press Release
“A warm vibrant air, an intense grass scent… All of a sudden I felt this strange desire, elementary and primitive, this need for activity and enthusiasm… Like a modern alchemist who recreates nature technologically dreaming of magic and cunning, I imagined a green summer in the equatorial forest… streaks of light amidst the foliage, dazzling visions of animals, the unexpected darting of a human figure… Reaching between the real and the imaginary, the authentic and its mere illusion. I sought out surprising materials with a vague fairy-tale quality… Gold and metal darkened and wet, cascades of ethnic jewels ever so light, plates of wood all adorn a body coming forth forcefully in secondskin clothes… A collection expressing a firm sense of freedom and energy… of the kind animating women today…“
Gianfranco Ferré
… Suits in forest shades of georgette and taffeta stitched together to create senses of transparency…
In a wavering between fantasy and reality, the invention of thickweave cotton pants with bands of imitation-nappa in little strips, worn with shirts in a white full-textured silk. A leather suit with flared ankle-length skirt. Superlong jackets, ultrashort skirts…
… Freedom to choose, in utter purity, the series of white organza voile shirts, collarless and impalpable. With volumes constructed by means of cuts and darts…
… A suit in a thickweave silk seemingly woven by hand; diagonal netting and crepe for rigidly structured suits with square shoulders and no collar…
… Suits and jackets in various images of black and white, apparently pieces of pottery broken and put back together…
… And then white and black in giant vaguely cubist motifs, in silk tussah…
Exciting tropical colors. A carioca flair for contrasting stripes, pants in heavy cotton…
… Hot sensations for shirts in big orange, mango and passionfruit stripes. Alternately sheer and shiny, thanks to a special technique mixing organza and satin… Naturally-dyed tussah skirts, slightly flared at the bottom, worn with a body in stretch leather…
… Circular skirts with a piano wire through the hem allowing the option of tying…
Rustlings, cracking sounds, calls of the wild… “There, amidst the pitanja trees, as the immense moon floods with gold the mangos, abacates and cajus, and the fragrance of the gardenias wafts in the breeze from the Rio Piauitinja” (Jorge Amado, “Teresa Batista Weary of War”)…
In the verdant liquid of the forest, amidst the luxuriant foliage, a leaf print on stretch tulle, on organza T-shirts. Leather scarves coming alive in fishnet weaves, knapsacks taking shape as short short skirts…
… The mimicry of a magical crocodile, in a trompe-l’oeil embroidery and in combo with tulle, on bombers and jackets. Skirts knotted on a hip in a spontaneous fashion. Pantsuits in a handwoven corktone tussah, small jackets (always a bodysuit and T instead of shirts), soft pants widening on down…
… Color as a tattoo marking the flesh, brown and white in leather, tulle and silk, with flat ribbons, sewn zigzag for forming brassière and skirt. Jackets short and body-hugging or extralong, almost hiding the skirt…
Tussah satin for pants, tops and jeans in a camouflage print…
… Raffia in mix with gauze for a bark effect, wood shoes, cinnamon scents… Bombers in anaconda and nappa leather in a wood print, a crushed shirt reminiscent of bark again…
… Black leather and gray nylon, a poor technological material emerging like a tuft of feathers, as if belonging to some mysterious zebu… Shirts and bombers strikingly knotted.
Three suits constructed of line: double sleeveless jacket, short, and body-skimming, in silk shantung and double satin…
… Double jackets in the radiant colors of macaw parrots; underneath, a fake vest knotted over white pants. Pure white dresses, amazing sarongs clinging to the brassière.
… An enchanting silhouette: over sequin-studded jeans, hints of nudity, revealing bodysuits …
… Sarongs in pressed sequins set off by sashes opening up in green knots…
The surprise of a finely pleated scarf enveloping the body like a leaf…