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Collections —Woman / Prêt-à-Porter

Spring / Summer — 1991

Press Release

“I have a longing for energy, a vibrant energy generating optimism. I have a longing for concreteness, a sense of our times. And, along with, a desire to dream. All without looking back upon the recent past, of which I see return only the most vulgar, superficial aspects. Meanwhile, I think in terms of intense emotions, total encounters with water, wind and sand. A nature which transforms matter and enhances the physical force of fabrics. For ultimately I move ahead in search of transparent effects that highlight the body in a way either poetic or purely sporty…”

Gianfranco Ferré

A whirlwind of sand, sporty camouflage clothes airy and light. Organza-lined nylon tricots, polynosic graindusted pullovers in a finely-sanded-bathing-suit effect. Strong well-constructed safari jackets. A burnus from time to time. Pants in a parachute cloth. A white nabuk jumpsuit open and low cut.

A feel for hugging, knotting, enveloping a search for forms ever dynamic. A balloon-shirt with drawstrings accenting the fullness of segments. A jumpsuit with flaps for throwing over shoulders, belying the circular appearance when flat. A sharp, wrap-around silhouette reminiscent of a Bedouin look, with simple rectangles of cloth for draping on the body. Mediterranean exoticisms, southern chiaroscuros. White ribbons, chevrons and braids reminiscent of stuccowork frets. A sense of shadow and light, black and white, all the result of passementeries on organza. The shimmer of azulejos with the patching of ceramic pieces. Little ceramic tesserae on the swimsuit, a sort of mosaic come to life. A stiff linen weave in a cabinetwork effect.

Material transformations, new alchemies. Leatherdusted Lycra. Fabrics seemingly mineral and vegetable… marble and wood. Shimmering taffetas and Lycras in brocade-effect dyes. Caftan pieces with satin jointings for terry robes and pullovers.

Sweetly skimming fabrics. Shiny lingerie silk for unusually proportioned jackets with high waist and no collar, and for the long shirt worn over loose-fitting pants. Duchesse and shantung for the caban with shirt. Raw silk in butter and cream tones. Firm double-faced satins for dressy suits with an irresistible low-cut neckline in back.

Ferré trademarks. The light and airy white organza shirt with taffeta scarf at hips. The chromatic abstraction of neutrals, sand and earth tones, navy blue. An oriental explosion of pink, saffron, bougainvillaea and jasmine. The wild elegance of leather and anaconda.

A chest of hidden treasures. Brocades. An onyx glint: white&black organza graphic motifs. A mother-of-pearl iridescence: embroideries of buttons, studdings on designs and prints. Bayadère stripes. A jumpsuit all the way to toes.

A gust of wind, a cloud of sand. Somewhat of a dream … endless grains of sand accenting on the dress the curve of breasts, the voluptuousness of hips.