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Collections —Woman / Prêt-à-Porter

Spring / Summer — 1987

Press Release

 “Challenge with a new spirit… Which means making simplicity a subtle tool of dignity, not being afraid of certain standard forms and of self-renewal. Or transforming into vivacity all that is by nature formal, setting feminine and masculine cleverly in opposition.

This is the secret of an independent collection, built up by working on what I like most and which I see as a beginning, the opening of a future path. Where desire, typical of prêt-à-porter, becomes stronger and stronger, to impress, to seduce, to capture. Yet using a language which is not really typical and which derives from high fashion: a lesson in proportions.”

Gianfranco Ferré

Some reflections on the collection. Feeling at ease in a sleeveless suit, with a mannish jacket decorated with a showy print and keen graphic designs, teamed with trousers in grey wool. Appreciating the comfort of a suit which contradicts the formality of a masculine fabric, wool turning the jacket into a well-structured double waistcoat: one in white piqué, the other in fabric. Impoverishing the virile jacket, loose and flared towards the bottom, with a precious silk drapery, the black of satin and the purity of white. Wearing a necklace with large wood beads like a man sports a tie. Losing oneself in big straight dresses like pullovers, with V or crew neck, well emphasized at the back, full in the front giving a low blousy effect creating natural pockets.

Talking about common elements of clothing. Borrowing the collar of a mannish shirt, enlarging it and making it become a sleeveless blouse. Taking possession of well-known forms such the trench, but colouring it red, teamed with red trousers and jacket. Or substituting a shirt with a gilet, short or long, and fixing it with a jacket flying away at the back, and exaggerated by the little collar with gigantic lapels. Softening the barracuda sports jacket with natural silk poplin.

Giving a different charm to the basic tenets of a dress. Moving casually in the striped black&white T-shirt, decorated by a high lacquered collar. Appreciating the looseness of blazers as informal as cardigans. Relaxing in the soft shirt with a surprising touch: a masculine silk scarf (like tricot, developed around a classic ecru scarf). Being amazed by the aggressive little dress in silk and wool mohair, which becomes a long cardigan (underneath there’s a gilet of the same length in immaculate piqué).

Saying the soundness of necessity allows a healthy sense of gaiety. Discovering a new way to build a dress, emphasizing a skirt with a high waist and teaming it with a bra, so as to show a flash of bare skin. Unbuttoning jacket and skirt to the max. Daring a printed jacket over a scarf in place of the blouse. Choosing the formal nature of a dress like an ankle-length cardigan fastened by huge gold buttons, or white uniform suits defined by an unproportionately long jacket. Giving up colour for black and white. Or totally wanting it, but respecting the principle of necessity: red, geranium, sunflower yellow, putty. With an all-out taste for the trompe l’oeil decoration of certain African cultures, again seen through European eyes. But remembering that in our society industrial materials such as rubber used for swimsuits and beach tops are pure.