Collections —Woman / Prêt-à-Porter

“I envisioned myself on a kind of journey, more like a promenade which originated in an intent for androgyny and evolved to the point of becoming an open declaration of respect and unconditional passion for femininity. Punctuated by a feel for pure ease yet also by flashes of alchemy, this new collection emerged for me as a way of exploring my own idea of feminine essence: in equal parts sophisticated and immediate, severe and measured. Rich in magic too, especially when the busy pace of day gives way to the gentle languor of evening…

 I made a game of cross-referencing, focusing keen attention to details, playing daringly with contradictions to achieve an equipose of true and therefore always uncommon elegance. The jackets, for example, are destructured yet at the same time small and skinny, whereas dresses and trench coats present a lavish fullness with blousy effects heightening the impact. The perfect aplomb of coats is ensured by the precision of structural cuts ­ – only three for the white model ­- reducing to a minimum the need for seams. The skirts, trapeze style, appear voluminous, almost as if to underline through the importance of shape a logical crescendo of femininity…

 I chose for legs to have a real sprint appeal, ­ quick and slinky on suede shoes with high sturdy heels, ­ all covered in thick warm hose. In contrast, arms are free, distinctly bare, with no sleeves at all or just short ones for protection. As a result gloves are omnipresent and indispensable, reaching sinuously well beyond elbows, effectively taking the place of sleeves, acting as much more than an accessory. No less important ­ for both fighting the wintry cold and defining this new silhouette ­ are the quilted silk ring-stoles embracing the neck and caressing shoulders with natural ease and a dash of feminine malice…

 I inflected materials with all my propensity for alchemy, for miracle-working, for express illusion practically confusing reality with dream. Silk, essentially weightless, is so thickly creased it almost resembles Chinese lantern paper. Albino cashmere blends quite wondrously with cotton in the hand-edged trench coat. Leather, ­ exactly like the metal in the small evening bags, ­ reveals a harmoniously rich texture and unusual depth thanks to laser cutting and triple layering. The utter preciousness of pekan comes through all the sharper in the exclusive form of borders and details…

 I wanted a chromatic modulation equally calibrated and capable of astonishing, intensely quiet but also richly vibrant. I ranged from black to albino camel hues, from ever-present red to indefinite musk shades, all the way to the very softest of lilacs. I rediscovered and renewed a longtime love of mine: the sparkle of metals! ­ Gold, silver, pewter, titanium ­ add a special glint to most of the collection, enhancing nearly every material from denim to brocade, nappa to silk…

 I applied to evening dresses the rules and regulations of a graceful, flattering severity, contrasting the lustrous sheen of embroideries, encrustations and laminations with exquisitely simple lines and volumes ­ assuming a vaguely round edge and draping lusciously with stately pleats…

 And lastly, I let myself succumb to the power and allure of boundless dreams, to making the impossible possible, to beauty in the purest of states. Creating a top studded with diamonds. Real diamonds. A basic design, quasi minimalist of cut and shape, paired with tapered tuxedo trousers, and then a silk cape to highlight rather than hide. At once dazzling and sublime, very much in a mirage mode. Interpreted on the runway by a woman with a glamour all her own, a combination of strength and charm, sensuality and energy ­ merging magically in a winning personality and an absolutely irresistible appeal…”

Gianfranco Ferré