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Collections —Woman / Prêt-à-Porter

Fall / Winter — 2005

Press Release

“I like to portray contemporary femininity in its multiple manners and expressions. A femininity refined and romantic, yet with a note of severity. Free of contradiction, it enjoys a sporty spirit too, a bent for comfort that reaches a point of conscious nonconformity. I sought and found this femininity – so charming and special – in the heartbreaking notes of a melody, in the pure verses of a lyric poem, in the images of a pulsating city, in horizons with no apparent end…”

Gianfranco Ferré

The note of severity comes quite succinctly in the dark blue wool pinstripe pantsuit: slim and precise, yet with extrastrong shoulders and capybara fur collar, it’s worn over the white or periwinkle jabot shirt that recurs throughout the collection in a great variety of mixes. Severity is also there in the straight knee-length gray grisaille skirt with a small flounce at the hem, set off most remarkably by a heavy cover blouson with clearly exaggerated proportions – including a grandiose natural guanaco collar – for a sort of glamorous revisitation of the cloaks horsemen once rode across the pampas in…

But this severity co-exists with a sense of enchantment and originality, it acquires impetus, resounds with sensual vibrations. While maintaining sartorial aplomb perfectly intact, the suit – in fabric or leather – exudes a new spirit through quasi-arabesque stitching. The skirt gets both longer and wider. With basin a bit lower on hips, it comes down to calves, sways in a circular motion with every step (the latter at once firm and springy thanks to boots reminiscent of the gaucho’s botas de potro, in superlight neutral tone suede, or in decorated and studded leather with a wedge heel). If instead the skirt is full length, it features thickly pleated flounces in iridescent silk faille. The result is a dancing effect, complete with irresistible rustle more seductive than a milonga…

Even keeping warm in winter becomes an assertion of opulence, an exercise in alchemy. In coats and capes opossum combines with fox and breitschwanz, bouclé presents an astrakan lining, sheared mink assumes a velvety softness, ultralight shearling turns magical with laser damask embossing. Brocade pairs with shetland wool in the gorgeous quilted duvets, brought back to an everyday dimension by gray T-shirt and pair of jeans – albeit studded with crystals shining like stars in the clear Patagonia sky…

In totally new harmonies with tweed and an incredibly glistening iridescent velvet, brocade bursts forth in all its splendor, favoring the deepest and most intense of hues: coffee brown, wine red, dark green, midnight and inky blues at times brightened by flashes of orange or red. All to enliven embroidered and otherwise richly decorated skirts worn with a simple blouse and cinched at the waist by a stitched-leather bustier-belt with long swingy braided laces. Below the hemline appear tapered satin tango shoes with ostrich toe, narrow crisscrossing bands, swallowtail heel. And the soft tempting click-click-click goes off into the porteña night, along the sidewalks of Avenida Corrientes, to follow the echoing of a song…

“En la musica estan, en el cordaje

De la guitarra trabajosa

Que trama en la milonga venturosa

La fiesta y la inocencia del coraje”

Jorge Luis Borges, “El Tango”