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Collections —Woman / Prêt-à-Porter

Fall / Winter — 2004

Press Release

“Every word becomes its opposite, every concept its antithesis: color/non color, classic/not quite classic. A dancing, truly feminine silhouette takes shape: strong shoulders, a cinched waist, a swaying, knee-length skirt. The accent is on an irresistibly glamorous and eccentric way of dressing.  An obsession with a sporty flair becomes immediately apparent. It is an obsession capable of reinventing the rules of urban elegance and exuding freshness even in the icy winter. Non colors have singular depth: the ultimate black and a wintry blue, combined with green, petroleum, gray, and brick-red. Unexpected touches of fluorescent colors accent the details and the most magical of materials, like crocodile…

I rethought classic genres expressly so that they’d spark new attention, as in the city suits, skirts and jackets with the selvage of the fabric visible as decoration or with stretch gros grain edging and fine pleating at hem. Meanwhile, I gave precious cashmere and fur a distinctly sporty feel. I used natural beaver, Australian opossum, honey blond mink for ultrafunctional parka linings and underjacket vests capable to protect against the great cold. Cashmere instead, in double and triple forms, assumes the close texture and substance of a truly innovative and luxurious felt…

To create movement and to favor the figure’s natural ease, I devoted equal consideration to the consistency and suppleness of materials. I preferred cotton velvet over the silk variety because it’s firmer and drapes less. I utilized the entire range of matte jerseys that are full bodied yet sharp and stretch tricotines. By opting for a stretch double jersey, I made the zipped two-tone blouson-pant outfit nearly as snug as a scuba suit. The same holds true for the jogging “suit” worn with utter cool over a swirl-collar shirt. The sleek nylon ensemble with a flirty skirt is similarly stretchy. As for the elegant blouse with jabot (actually a detachable tie), it comes in a mannish oxford-cloth. The traditional trench inspires a series of pieces in triple twisted-cotton gabardine: suits, jackets, shirts with a neat collar turning into basin or pocket flap, lapels drooping into tails, borders coming in satin, the lining in canvas. As always, research and invention border on alchemy, fire intense emotions, dazzling illusions… fulfill forbidden dreams. Fluffy Tibetan goat, complete with tulle inserts, borders coats and skirts offering the impression of monkey fur. The hand-painted pony suit has all the allure of a jaguar skin. True fetish and decorative leitmotif, alligator – when not the genuine item – shows up as scalework in paillette, jet, even pure plastic forms…

For evening I did away with full lengths. Short and sinuous, dresses feature slim bodices (with puffs or drapings) and swirl necklines, a skirt rich in inserts, spirals, panels. Stretch jersey fashions a supersimple little jacket without lining, while intriguing mixes of tulle, voile, stitched satin with lace inserts and glittery “alligator” scales define most other creations. Lastly, for exquisite warmth on a special night, natural wild fox embraces shoulders with utter refinement…

High-heels with a tapered toe always make for a leggy look, even though during the day coat-matching shinguards or thick leg warmers add sure protection. At night, rather, legs stay practically bare thanks to sheer mesh or satin pumps, otherwise bare dressy sandals with sparkling jewel-decors…”

Gianfranco Ferré