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Collections —Woman / Prêt-à-Porter

Fall / Winter — 1997

Press Release

“A voluptuous haze, among scents and shadows and the delicate tingling sound of a long necklace, encompasses the silhouette… Allusions, fragments of memories, images, all seem to multiply as reflections in a prism… I designed this collection thinking that in our culture the urge for simplicity is pervaded by a taste for refined complications. The mere concept of lining is no longer enough and what captures the imagination is the luxury of what now peeks out from underneath… the allure of ankles daintily bound by narrow straps, the exoticism of slender and pointed shoes, reminiscent of an orientai spirit…”

Gianfranco Ferré

Sensations… a diffuse, all-pervading impression of sensuality… even casual and sportier pieces are so slim that they let the body’s softness come through. An aviator style belt is slung low on the hips. A thin leather belt coils itself around the waist, its sharp gold tips calling forth the tail of a serpent on the run. As in the Orient, the dress slips on easily and moves dreamily around the body. No sense of nostalgia, rather an aura of exoticism and sophistication.

Desires… the silhouette is long and soft. Still, it expresses a precise sense of will, as the body becomes sinfully exposed or modestly concealed. Among long skirts and pants, there’s a skirt so short that only the upper part of the dress seems left.

Revolutions… there are no definite tops, no definite bottoms. Coats are slim and snug. Also long, to conceal ground-grazing Tees. Jackets have new dimensions and are body-hugging. Fabrics are both full-textured and soft. On their reverse side, wools reveal strips of satin. Cashmeres boast the support of stretch fabrics, lending a new ease to the material.

Colorings… colors mixed, shaded, superimposed. Intense caramel acquires a bright red hue, red vibrates in the vicinity of silver, dark blue shimmers with various sheens, icy browns liven up through shiny/matte effects. Reflections of gemstones and flowers: deep turquoises, topazes, dark purple, oriental violet. For the most precious of moments, pale ethereal tones: powder, alabaster, pearly velvets. Delicate floral motifs are hidden by iridescent georgettes, shadows of embroideries appear under silver tones… all with a fresh sense of poetry.

Alchemies… shaded alligator, leathertone marabou, flickers of shadow from small tufts of fur, impalpable wools in the shape of coats. Sharp, slender, strappy shoes… Flats, heels, soft and embroidered, even in alligator skin. Tiny bags, no bigger than a cigarette-holder.

Declinations… Gianfranco Ferré Jeans, at once clean and simple, magical and unique. Nuances dense and intense. In de-colored velvet multiple dyed for lustrous effects, in brocade, in shiny padded taffeta.