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Collections —Woman / Prêt-à-Porter

Fall / Winter — 1988

Press Release

 “Two moods are formulated in this collection, two desires which seem to be antithetical, yet mysteriously showing some points of connection. The urge of limpidity, the simple precision of outlines, and the desire of a sudden flicker… A touch of childish coquetry, a strange languor that seems to originate from a dream, memories of old fairy-tales… There is the fox appearing wherever from the coat hem to the belt. The flash of a pair of red shoes, the candour of a white blouse. And the richness of crumpled velvets, opulence of brocades and burnished brass brooches… Just for the fun of it or to assert a freedom of taste and inspiration. Never before had I found the image so soft, smart and lively. So exact…”

Gianfranco Ferré

Essential style, with a flicker of childish coquetry. Always a white blouse, always the whiteness of a cuff, the blossoming of a collar, always the touch of an embroidered “pochette” (pocket handkerchief).

Games of skill, like the verbal tricks of a charade. The fox border trimming the woollen coat may just turn into a pullover belt, camel-hair knits create the optical illusion of a jacket. The fancy handkerchief peeping over the breast pocket becomes lace; lace turns into a jacket – a black and rubberized one, though – or grows into a train.

Unpredicted softness: the trench coat flowing thanks to its godet (trumpet) cut; the sports sweater becomes loose-fitting just above the waistline.

Contrast of red and black sheepskin for the hussar-like sports jacket; shiny black pony for trench coats and suits; printed crocodile and sheepskin, outrageously matched.

“The dandy look” for the tailcoat-like jacket; for the tight overcoat and the trench coat dotted with golden buttons; for the brocade jacket contradicting the faded suede jeans.

Coincidence of form and content. Each style has its own material, each material has its own appropriate color. Alpaca, ultrasoft sheepskin and cashmere ranging from cream to caramel. Combed wool, gazar and satin shine in coral shades. Unfailing – and recurrent – blacks, whites and blues.

N.B. Sophisticated techniques are the aim of this collection. Cotton and viscose velvet is washed so that it looks creased and crumpled; lace is coated in rubber. Doubled materials, glued-over iridescent taffeta. Just to obtain the startling effect of a dreamy, spellbound elegance.