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Collections —Woman / Prêt-à-Porter

Fall / Winter — 1987

Press Release

“Normality read in an eccentric key, obtained through opposing layers of shape and material, shape and colour. A stylized dandyism: the cleaner the outline, the more emphasis is placed on the language of decoration. Eccentricity which evolves into electricity, makes the silhouette sparkle, now for a certain colour, now for a spreading-out of pleats which becomes a sudden and deliberate gesture … “

Gianfranco Ferré

Eccentric relationships between shape and material. The knit overcoat (like a cashmere sweater) over an extremely formal blue suit. The slipover coat like an opulent dressing-gown: in navy towel-woven wool initialled and with embroidered edgings, teamed with the evergreen navy blue shirt and pants. Tricot and gazar mohair are used for a highly original twinset edged in wolf.

Eccentric relationships between shape and colour. A “Chesterfield” coat amazingly created in Mazarine cashmere. Another in lightweight double-breasted blue cashmere shrugged over a loose, pyjama-type suit.

The eccentricity of volumes. A rounded cupola shape partly through the use of bulky materials, partly through a pleated construction: based either on a compact nubbed jersey or the use of a pure colour, purple.

The eccentricity of the balance between classical and opulent. “Saffian” leather for brief jackets and coats lined with fake fur by Agnona, extravagant fabric combined with an elementary shape. Jackets in various styles made precious by five jewelled buttons. Or with a total decoration of Victorian brooches. As an extra, a rich and noble purple collar. Other jackets are enhanced by gold braid in relief, almost a reminder of troops and uniforms.

Eccentric relationships between outline and decoration. On a mauve, hand-printed velvet silk jacket, matching fox fur cuffs. A scarf edged in wolf thrown over a sweater. A purple shawl in Gallenga velvet. At the back of a straight blue dress, a glimpse of white fan-pleating. The same on a coal-black brief jacket worn with a T-shirt and blue evening pants. A gros-grain raincoat with black edgings in wolf reveals a pleated lining.

The eccentricity of simplicity. A flat, slip-on shoe is emphasized by a bow or a buckle. The heel is French court style. Velvet plus fake fur. “Saffian” leather plus coloured python. A long, austere sweater-dress in black totally buttoned down the back; to wear unbuttoned at the top or bottom according to one’s personal limits of modesty. Or else – flamboyantly and totally buttoned-up.