Collections —Woman / Prêt-à-Porter

Source of inspiration: the metropolis. The allure, sense of motion, multifaceted lifestyle inherent to a bustling, fast-paced urban context. The silhouette moving in this dimension is soft, geometrically severe…

The collection reintroduces some items from last season – as in perfect synch with the new image – changing colors and materials, so that the pieces become “classics” of the Gianfranco Ferré line. Clothes meeting a wide range of needs, reflecting a multiplicity of attitudes, come in all the materials used: dynamic clothes for a busy day; fun, different, possibly alternative clothes for a long and enjoyable evening. The selection of leathers, for example, includes blazers, princess dresses and two-piece outfits in a lightweight suède; 3/4, 9/10 and full-length coats in shearling or nappa with warm down padding for daytime, plus short python jackets for evening. Equally rich is the variety of knits: from cardigans to padded blazers, in angora and cashmere blend, to twotone twinsets with hood- or scarf-neck; from soft dresses under 9/10 coats in quilted satin and cashmere, to thick patchwork pullovers in lamé, rayon and cashmere, all the way to evening dresses in cashmere, flannel and pané velvet. As for fabrics, it’s suits in traditional men’s worsted wool, short heavy sack-shape jackets, 7/8 and 9/10 in velour, raglan-sleeve loden coats (single- or double-breasted), classic kimono-style coats, wool crêpe tube dresses, plus wool muslin or grisaille vyella shirts for daytime. Then for evening there are blouses in crêpe de chine and satin, short jacket & voluminous skirt ensembles in ottoman and georgette. Lastly, fur makes an appearance for day – in the form of ultralight water-resistant 3/4 and 9/10 in beaver, in whole-skin opossum and in wild cat – as well as for evening, with patchwork jackets and fox parkas.

The lines: the silhouette seems smaller and slimmer than before, with accent on linearity and geometric severity, all while maintaining sense of softness thanks to various technical solutions. In particular, darts or triangular cuts underline the figure from shoulders to waist; so, trapeze coats and jackets wrap the body lusciously and short straight jackets with round shoulders acquire a new fullness. Sleeves tend to narrow toward the bottom, collars are small and in some cases give way to crisscross effects toward the nape. Skirts swing with every step thanks to variously modulated pleats, open near the hem, on the hip or in back. Lengths drop to just below the knee.

The colors: gray, red, black in various shadings due to the distinctive qualities of the materials. The hues join forces in the pinstripes, in the houndstooth checks, in the glen plaids (prince of wales) and in the fanciful Harlequin patterns.

The accessories, all designed by Gianfranco Ferré: braided stretch belts, leather clutches and pouches with gros grain edging, geometric handbags and fun flat fabric evening bags. Also shoes (made by Guido Pasquali) take on a fresh look through the use of fabric: for classic pumps (in a print leather version too), for high-heel desert boots with colorful lining, and for flat ankle slippers. Harlequin print scarves (made by I Paralleli) are in silk and in georgette. Light wool colored hose by Rede. Twotone gloves. Hairstyling by Lella. Makeup by Helena Rubinstein.