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Collections —Woman / Accessories

Spring / Summer — 1990

Press Release

Prêt-à-porter Collection

“Impressions, fleeting thoughts… a lazy, carefree summer in Capri… I had this happy season in mind, a dandy with wind-blown cuffs, shirt open on a bare chest, fresh flower at his lapel. Dressing in a mannish way with humor and wit. And I interpreted it with the utmost sense of irony for a woman utterly feminine. Manipulating and destructuring traditional forms, designing sleeveless jackets and never-to-be-fastened double-breasted blazers, flaunting buttons only as decors… But I worked also with the aim of achieving a natural abundance of volumes, through full sleeves, spontaneously flaring lines, elementary shapes as simple as cuts of cloths… This collection vibrates with Neapolitan sensations, with the fantasy and freedom to invent, adapt and blend… For I sought out a feel for the Mediterranean, for its laid-back mood, all without venturing far off, looking for things exotic…”.

(notes from a conversation with Gianfranco Ferrè on October 2nd, 1989)

Subtle memories, vanishing chimeras. Instead of pants, a finely pleated skirt worn with a jacket in the same fabric. An impalpable crêpe de chine, an ultralight cadì-grisaille, a fine fìl-à-fil (end on end) shirting linen, a transparent organza-grisaille. All the codes of men’s apparel brought to an exasperation point for extracting a supremely feminine essence. The riding mac as an oversize shirt in organza-grisaille, worn with pants in a silk sablé. A strikingly big carnation at the dandy’s lapel. So shimmering with morning dew as to rival coarse-scale python and imitation-python lacquered tricot. The iridescent gabardine men’s suit, in version vacation-in-Capri, loses its sleeves and takes on a bouquet of straw carnations. The body-skimming sweaters come in iridescent silk voile, the mannish blouson in marabou with a stitched iridescent georgette lining. Amidst reference points and decorations, the absolute musts of the collection – watches, pens and lighters – show up in the form of prints on T shirt-shirts, for casually tucking into the leather skirt.

Traveling amid sensations, following an itinerary of impressions. Subtle references by genres and categories. The concept of chalkstripe gabardine for robe-jackets, easy cabans… georgette foulards in a matching print. The robe look again for a white knee-length trench (in poplin, leather, light unlined cashmere), ajour stitching instead of seams for a fine elegant touch. Pants with the softness of pajamas, pullovers in combos of sponge-cloth and white satin.

A feel for Capri, for its bright and richly scented colors. Light coral, deep blue, sea-bottom green, ocean-wave blue, bougainville pink. White for pants outfits in crêpe de chine. Then during a stroll under the sun, the sudden freshness of an arbor with its shade: overlapping positive/negative prints, upset by a whiff of wind. See-through weaves, straw-like, in leather and viscose tricot, cotton and (sheer) nylon, in natural drapings with intersecting bands. Chaise-longue stripes escape the laws of geometry and take on unusual twists. Fluid clothes, flat forms.

Elementary constructions for highly complex architectures, those reminiscent of Italian terraces in summer. As in the black Lycra crêpe swimsuit masterful of cut. In the long body-skimming caftan in suede, and in the multicolor shirts over superslim pants.

Inserts, interlaced ribbons and macramés decorate white snakeskin and tulle. Cut-out effects enhance organza and tulle. Tuxedos with the same transparencies give a note of light to bare legs. Gold threads add shots of light to the fil-à-fil linen.

Salerno ceramic-tile colors enrich further the precious fabrics with embroideries in the shapes of magic symbols: the moon, stars, cupid, coral, scarab…