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Collections —Woman / Accessories

Fall / Winter — 1991

Press Release

Prêt-à-porter Collection

“British humor… with that divine touch of eccentricity emblematic of men but now in an exquisitely feminine vein, of rules brought to such extremes as to become exceptions to the same, of a spirit of adventure nevertheless true to an inner sense of form. A very urbane way of dressing, at once civilized and ironic, a way playing with contrasts and references. For me, designing a collection also means drawing from a constant wealth of concepts, consolidating further classic elements of Ferré: the white blouse, the black redingote, the white piqué or red beaver ascot… And yet each time in the realm of a different dream…”.

(notes from a conversation with Gianfranco Ferré on February 13, 1991)

A cleanliness of forms: round and rigid or body-skimming. Some hints of a long silhouette.

A compact sense of color: red and black set off by touches of white. Ferré red in a new almost fluorescent pink version.

The languor of mannish looks: a smoking jacket shaped by drapings instead of darts. A long tailcoat-type jacket. A coat drawing from the hunter’s macintosh but in a flame-colored gros grain. An ankle-length leather overcoat dark as aged wine, in an Amelia Erhart sort of aviator style, a georgette shirt underneath. An immaculate leather anorak, almost for skiing, with ostrich-feather padding or in a white-and-black feather print.

A sensation of luxurious warmth: a lavish alpaca robe-coat with satin lining and inner fur profiling. A giant sweater, in alpaca again. A pullover with marabou borders, for wearing with gray moiré jeans. A black jumpsuit with out-of-sight collar.

A transformation of fabrics and patterns: a magnifying-glass effect for the overchecks of mannish coats set on a chenille netting creating a chevron design.

A wondrous mix of materials and shadings of styles and forms too, for a mascherade ball rich in mysterious allusions. Ruches in crestlike effects, pheasant feathers for the sleeves of an almost imperceptibly pindotted dress. A finely pleated nylon shawl, simulating the ruche of a fairy-tale animal, over the T-shirt. Point d’esprit for a smooth spot print. Tulle feathers on the gray dress. All for a look reminiscent of little pheasants and turtledoves in an imaginary bird menagerie.