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Collections —Woman / Accessories

Fall / Winter — 1981

Press Release

Prêt-à-porter Collection

Thinking along the lines that in fashion “fantasy is not what it was” (what is new? what is not dejà vu? what is revolutionary?) and that winter should be considered a “fait accompli”, with less frills and tralalas and dressing-up for, Gianfranco Ferré has chosen as the aim of his new collection: linearity, neatness, construction and a balance of volumes completely refusing the casual or negligent look and striving for an image devoid of surplus accessories.

This has led to a choice of well–defined fabrics and materials: thick doubleface cloth edged in gros grain, harris tweed or salt&pepper tweed, heavy jersey with a melton feel, rubberized cotton for raincoats, padded leather and “borego” for blouson jackets, double crêpes with an interlock effect for evening wear, country-style loden teamed with leather.

Plus a declared fancy for “metropolitan” colours: dusky, foggy greys, dark, smokey greys, a range of Oriental blues (China blue, indigo, carbon copy blue), decisive touches of bright red.

All this has led to a choice of neat, no-nonsense outlines: long jackets with fly-fastenings and quilted strip collars, collarless jackets with a double sleeve effect, a series of sporty slipover tops, rainproof duster coats, calf-length wrapover coats in contrast with just-above-the-knee length linear coats in soft velour, longer skirts, straight and with a side slit which often conceals a double effect, pants without tucks at the waist which are rounder at the knees, “culotte-dresses.”

And again, the decision to link the collection to certain themes borrowed from “kimono civilisation”: the “obi” is a recurrent motif, in leather and knit on daytime outfits, in sequins on evening ones where, taken to extreme lengths, it becomes a small jacket to wear with certain pants with a triangular cut in faille, grisaille or velvet.